Wool’s fashion outlook is a top yarn
From London, Sophie Steller picks the trends in fashion and advises companies, including AWI, on what is going to appeal to retailers and designers
One of the world’s leading fashion trend forecasters, Sophie Steller, says wool for winter 2007 is all about the yarn. London-based Ms Steller, who specialises in all aspects of knitwear design and has 17 years experience in yarn, colour and trend research, consults for a large range of clients, including Polo, Gap and American Eagle in the US, and Etro, Esprit, French Connection and Marks & Spencer in Europe.
She also does specialist forecasting work for companies, including AWI. She reports to them monthly on trends and what she has seen at international trade shows, and has close links with a wide manufacturing base. Ms Steller is working closely with AWI’s knitwear product development team, helping to formulate seasonal collections that appeal to retailers, designers and buyers at international trade shows.
“As the season has unfolded so far, the major underlying trend being sought out by all is the need for all things neutral or grey,” she says. “As seen in reports of early trends at trade shows, retail shopping and at catwalk level, all looks are a solid tone of one colour with the emphasis on stitch and styling details.
“With looks so pared down, the yarn plays a crucial role in offering a new dimension to a range. Since the looks range from superfine to super chunky, this means both worsted and woollen spinners play an important role in developing new products. With chunky traditional stitches yarns must be lightweight and lofty, but not so soft the stitch is lost. The use of technology to create yarns that are light and airy is essential as the chunky look is a trend, but with the current climate and lifestyle changes knitwear can’t be heavy or too hot, even in the depths of winter.”
Ms Steller applauds new developments in processing that give traditional yarns a much softer feel without the need for multiple fibre blends. “At the opposite end of the spectrum, fine gauge seems to be gaining momentum in all markets from classic to youth. Colour development is also key here, with rich heathers and melanges bringing depth and newness to such fine counts. Being so close to the skin, softness is also important, as is the need for cooler touches and breathability.”
Stitches complement this natural feeling with simple repetitive looks combining textures with cables, ribs, lace patterns and other traditional stitches.
“The season has really played down pattern and embellishment after last year’s pattern explosion. But for winter, there is an emergence of strong graphic elements in patterns as a follow-on from bold stripes. Two or three-colour patterns in both men’s and women’s wear are a key trend, taking influences from traditional Scandinavian patterns, but with updated scale and placement for a more modern look.
“Embellishment is also showing a small comeback in the form of anything sparkling, from rhinestones to sequins, but for everyday looks rather than an evening trend. Styling and shapes continue to be dominated by the tunic, the cardigan and the sweater dress in women’s fashions. However, newer looks show the return of cropped styling – but exaggeratedly short – and the trapeze shape as the key new silhouette trends.”
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